Visit to Bethlehem

This is part one of a two-part entry for January 1, 2011.

Hello again to all our followers,

Today was a nonstop barrage of action. After breakfast, we drove to Bethlehem and its Church of the Nativity, where tradition tells us Jesus was born. The trip was only seven or so miles, but there was plenty to see on the way – another glimpse of the Old City, some very cool ancient architecture, and the controversial wall that separates Israel from the West Bank. Some call it a security barrier, some call it the Apartheid Wall. Whatever its name, it is quite an intimidating sight – a concrete behemoth standing over twenty feet, guarded by Israeli soldiers toting machine guns.

 Meeting Our Guide at the Church of the Nativity

by Paulina Muratore

After passing through the checkpoint, we arrived at the Church of the Nativity and met our tour guide, Isa (which is the Arabic version of “Jesus”). He led us inside, chuckling as we were forced to crouch while entering the tiny stone door that had been built hundreds of years ago to prevent people from bringing livestock into the church. 

 Door to Nativity

by MacLean Cadman

We stepped into an enormous cathedral, lined by giant pillars and decorated with countless chandeliers, paintings, and relief sculptures. Everywhere we looked, there was something that demanded closer attention – a faded script on a pillar, shimmering jewels on the chandeliers, various crosses and other religious symbols etched into the stone. Isa explained how the church had been rebuilt three times over the millennia, and how each had added to its structure and décor.

 The Crowded Descent into the Grotto

by MacLean Cadman

Then it was time to descend to the grotto that was built – supposedly – upon the stable where Jesus was born. As Bob Tobin said about a few holy sites today, “It may not be the spot, but it is the place.” Pushing and shoving – we were competing with several other tour groups to enter the grotto, including an especially determined Indian family – we stepped into the cramped space where our Lord Christ was born. A silver fourteen-point star marked the exact place where Mary gave birth. As was custom, people were kneeling to touch or kiss the star and whisper a quick prayer, or snap a picture. The spiritual atmosphere was somewhat interrupted by the fact that we only had a few seconds before being shoved aside by the next anxious tourists, but it was still a powerful experience.

 The Birthplace of Jesus

by MacLean Cadman

Next, we tiptoed through the back of a Spanish Mass and descended into a series of caves that houses both the tomb of St. Jerome and the room where he translated the Bible into Latin. The tomb is empty, however; Crusaders removed his bones, many think to the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Then, Isa led us up and out into the church’s courtyard. He gave us the Palestinian perspective of the 2003 siege, where Palestinian gunmen had sought refuge from Israeli forces by hiding in the church. Over the course of the month-long holdup, Israeli snipers shot down five to eight people, including one of the church’s monks. The bullet holes in the upper wall of the courtyard are still clearly visible.

 Bullet Holes in The Church of the Nativity

by MacLean Cadman

Another stop later in the day took us to Shepherd’s Field, where the shepherds, watching their flocks by night, saw the star that led them to Jesus. It is not so much a field anymore – stone walkways, fountains, and a chapel dominate the space – but it retains its sense of holiness. Across the street is a co-operative run by a Palestinian family, selling beautiful sculptures handcrafted from olive trees and other attractive souvenirs. After some not-so-brief browsing, we made the short walk to the Grotto Restaurant and filled up on the traditional three-course meal of pita bread with several creative and tasty fillings, salad doused in olive oil, and chicken and lamb with less-traditional french fries.

At last, we were driven, sleepy and content, back to the guesthouse – interrupted by the checkpoint at the barrier, where the bus was boarded by Israeli soldiers who could not have been much older than us. The automatic weapon which one carried looked to be about half her size. But a few smiles, New Year’s wishes and, more importantly, passports, got us through without incident. We returned to St. George’s for a short period of discussion and, to everyone’s relief, bedtime (except for those involved with keeping up the blog, but of course we won’t complain!)

We’ll be checking in again tomorrow. Have a good day, night, whatever it is over there, and thanks for reading!

~ MacLean Cadman

2012, Communication

Boston College